INSTALLING CERAMIC TILE


INSTALLING CERAMIC TILE ON A WOOD SUB FLOOR

REMOVE ALL EXISTING BASEBOARD AND QUARTER ROUND IF NEEDED

CLEAN FLOOR SUBFLOOR REAL GOOD

INSTALL BACKER BOARD ON SUB FLOOR

SCREW ALL BACKER BOARD REAL GOOD TO SUB FLOOR

MIX YOUR THIN SET MORTAR

MAKE SURE YOU USE THE RIGHT SPACERS

LAY YOUR TILE AND LET IT SET IN THIN SET MORTAR FROM 16 TO 24 HOURS

NEXT DAY INSTALL GROUT IN THE SPACER JOINTS WHICH EVER THE SPACE IS.

INSTALLING PEX TUBE PIPING

Installing Pex tubing and techniques is a great choice when running water to new fixtures, remodeling, or even repiping.

Pex does not require glue or soldering

Fact that pex tubing comes in really long rolls makes it quickier to install because there are less fitting to connect.

INSTALLING PEX TUBING

1.  PLANNING - figure out what type of project it is, how much pipe how many fitting you need and anything else you may required.

Manifolds - is an installation were everything is run from the manifold to fixtures with no fitting in between (called Home run)

2.  Collect all material - it helps to draw out a diagram of how the pipes will run and where fittings will be necessary.

PUSH FIT FITTINGS

1.  Push fit fittings are becoming more and more readily available in home improvement stores. The popularity of push fit fitting has a lot to do with the ease of use and versatility.

When you are making joints for new installation or repair using cpvc, pex, copper pipes push fit fittings are by far quickier and faster.

BENEFIT OF PUSH FIT FITTINGS

1.   The speed of making a connection with push fit fittins is the biggest advantage.  In an emergency you can quickly cap or repair a pipe by simple pushing on a push fit fitting.

2.   Push fit fittings are a great way to make pipe connections without having to soldier or use clamps, unions, or glue.

3.   Not only is glue not required when using push fit fittling on pvc even with water in the line will not harm the seal of conncetions made with this type of fitting.

solid waste pumps

Solid waste pumps are used where conventional gravity flow cannot carry plumbing waste away.  Fixtures in the basement of a house with a septic system usually need a solid waste pump to carry the waste up to the main sewer line. These systems are expensive and relatively complex.  These solid waste pumps are submerged in a tank with a sealed top.  The house plumbing fixtures drain into the tank.  When it is filled to a given level, the pump comes on, discharging the waste through a line which goes to a city sewer or septic system.  The incoming line is typically three inches and the discharge line is usually two inches in diameter. A vent pipe is typically connected to the top of the tank.  A float or diaphragm liquid level sensor activates the pump.  Some have high liquid level alarms which notify the homeowner of a malfunction.

PROBLEMS - Problems can develop with the electrical supply, or the electric motor.  The pump can become obstructed or damaged.  Leaks can develop in the piping systems which drain into or out of the tank.  

Care must be taken with these systems, since raw sewage is, of course, a health hazard.

Whirlpool Bathtubs

A whirlpool bath is essentially a conventional bathtub with a circulating pump, supply jets and a return intake added.  Whirlpool baths can be very large, and contains a great deal of water when filled.  In some cases, engineering consideration to the floor structure below should be given.  A conventional residential floor system is designed for thirty to forty pounds per square foot of live load.  Typical floor loads imposed by whirlpools range from forty to sixty pounds per square foot.  A visual inspection will not reveal the framing details below a whirlpool in most circumstances. Sometimes, evidence of deflection below the tub can be seen.

GFCI - The electric supply to the whirlpool should be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter.  This is a special, highly sensitive device which will shut off the electricity in the event of a very small electrical fault. This additional safety is important, of course, wherever water and electricity come together.

Pump and Motor - problems may develop with the electric motor or the pump mechanism.  Leaks or obstructions in the piping lines around the tub can appear, and may be difficult to access and repair.  Connection points of the tub may be potential leakage areas as well.

Controls - The electrical control for the whirlpool should be located at least three feet from the tub.

Many codes also require that the switch be a timer.  There is danger of people staying in the whirlpool for long periods of time.  As a result, the whirlpool should only be able to be turned on for a fixed number of minutes. Some tubs have an air (pneumatic) switch with a timer right on the tub.

Service Access - it is good practice to provide a readily accessible service door to work on the pump and motor.  Where this is not available, repairs will be more expensive.

Larger Water Heater - Larger whirlpool may require larger water heaters to ensure the tub can be filled with hot water.  Some manufacturers recommend water temperatures not exceed 104 F, to avoid discoloration of the acrylic.

Repairing Screens & Storms

To improve the view through your windows, consider replacing the screens.  Sagging fiberglass screens look terrible, and rusty metal screens darken rooms.  The window screens and storms in your home may be the kind you can remove, or they may be aluminum-frame combination storm and screen windows you can leave in place year round. Chances are the frames themselves won't need attention nearly as often as the screen. The frames may be wood or metal, the screen either metal

( typically aluminum) or fiberglass.

REPLACING SCREEN IN AN ALUMINUM FRAME

1.  Remove old screen

      Pry off the splines and pull out the screen. Cut new screen the same size as the frame's

      Outer dimensions, squaring the corners. Place the screen flush with the channel's outer edge

      On one end and side.

2.   FIT NEW SCREEN INTO FRAME

      Bend the screen into the channel at the end of the frame, using the convex wheel of a 

      Spline roller or a putty knife. Use a wood block to weight down the screen.

3.   REPLACE THE SPLINE

      Push the spline back into the channel, using the concave wheel of the roller or a wood

      Block and hammer. Holding the screen's edge tight, insert spline in the other end and sides.

Water Supply line (Problems)

Leaks:   The underground water supply line from the property line into the house, is owned by the homeowner.  Beyond the property line, the pipe is the responsibility of the city. A leak in the pipe requires excavation, and it is often difficult to know until one begins to dig. weather the leak is on the city's or the homeowner's side. The city is usually contacted and they excavate their section of the pipe, correcting the problem if they discover it. If no problem is found, the homeowner is left to correct the problem on his or her own. In some cases, the homeowner must pay the city's work if the city pipe is not at fault.

Since the supply line from the street cannot be seen, no comment can be offered during a visual inspection. If there is a leak, it may go undetected for some time. The water meter inside the
building is downstream of any leak in this pipe and thus, will not show the problem.

How to Install a Shower Enclosure`

1.   Mark out the location of the shower, including any new walls, on the floor and walls. Most kits can
      be installed over wallboard, but you can ususally achieve a more professional looking wall finish if
      you remove the wallcovering and floor covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials
      immediately and thoroughly clean the area.
2.   If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out the locations for the studs and plumbing
      on the new wood sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate that will be attached to
      the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs.
      Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel adhesive, making sure it is square
      to the back wall and the correct distance from the side wall.
3.   Alighn a straight 2 x 4 right next to the sill plate and make a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to
      extend that line directly above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point.
4.   Install the 2 x 4 sutds at the outlined locations. Check with a level to make sure each stud is plumb,
      amd then attach them by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and cap plate.
5.   Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according to the installation manual instructions.
      Drill openings in the sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the supply pipes,
      also according to the instructions.
6.   Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are
      not experieced with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.
7.   Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction manual (again, have a plumber do this if
      necessary). Also install cross braces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting the faucet
      body and shower arm.
8.   If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old  or new) That is accessible from the non shower
      side, install framing for a removable access panel.
9.   Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your receptor to the underside of the unit, following
      the manufacturer's instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is being used to
      tighten the tailpiece.
      a). Option- To stablize the receptor, especially if the floor is uneven, pour or towel a layer
           of thinset mortar into installation area, taking care to keep the mortar out of the drain access hole. Do not apply maortar in areas where the receptor has feet that are intended to make full
contact with the floor.
10.   Set the receptor in place, check to make sure it is level, and shim it if necessary. Sercure the receptor with large-head roofing nails driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the flange against the stud. Do no overdrive the nails.
11.   Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes - in the end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template marked on the packaging carton. 'Cut the access hole with a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine tooth blade. If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is facing down.
12.   Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1/32") between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the receptor- set a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of roofing nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place(or use duct tape). Poosition both end walls and test the fits. Make clip connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.
13.   Remove the end wall - so you can prepare the installation area for them. If you kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it to the wall or studs.
14.   Re install end panels, Permanently clipping them to the back panel according to the kit manufacturer's instructions. Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with the front of the  receptor.
15.   Once the panels are positioned correctly nand snapped together, fasten them to the wall studs.
if  the panels have predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each stud at the panel tops and every 4" to 6" along vertical surfaces.
16.   Install walllcovering material aboue the enclosure panels and anywehere else it is needed. Use moisture-resistant materials, and maintain a gap of 1/4" between the shoulders of the top panel flanges and the wallcovering.
17.   Finish the wall and then caulk between  the enclosure panels and the wallcoverings with silcone caulk.
18.   Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk anround the escutcheon plate. Install the shower  a rm esctcheon and showerhead.
19.   Make an access panel and attach it at the framed openin created in step 8. A peiece of 1/4" plywood framed with mitered case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for access panel covers.