Leaks: The underground water supply line from the property line into the house, is owned by the homeowner. Beyond the property line, the pipe is the responsibility of the city. A leak in the pipe requires excavation, and it is often difficult to know until one begins to dig. weather the leak is on the city's or the homeowner's side. The city is usually contacted and they excavate their section of the pipe, correcting the problem if they discover it. If no problem is found, the homeowner is left to correct the problem on his or her own. In some cases, the homeowner must pay the city's work if the city pipe is not at fault.
Since the supply line from the street cannot be seen, no comment can be offered during a visual inspection. If there is a leak, it may go undetected for some time. The water meter inside the
building is downstream of any leak in this pipe and thus, will not show the problem.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Sunday, May 13, 2012
How to Install a Shower Enclosure`
1. Mark out the location of the shower, including any new walls, on the floor and walls. Most kits can
be installed over wallboard, but you can ususally achieve a more professional looking wall finish if
you remove the wallcovering and floor covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials
immediately and thoroughly clean the area.
2. If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out the locations for the studs and plumbing
on the new wood sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate that will be attached to
the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs.
Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel adhesive, making sure it is square
to the back wall and the correct distance from the side wall.
3. Alighn a straight 2 x 4 right next to the sill plate and make a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to
extend that line directly above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point.
4. Install the 2 x 4 sutds at the outlined locations. Check with a level to make sure each stud is plumb,
amd then attach them by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and cap plate.
5. Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according to the installation manual instructions.
Drill openings in the sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the supply pipes,
also according to the instructions.
6. Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are
not experieced with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.
7. Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction manual (again, have a plumber do this if
necessary). Also install cross braces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting the faucet
body and shower arm.
8. If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old or new) That is accessible from the non shower
side, install framing for a removable access panel.
9. Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your receptor to the underside of the unit, following
the manufacturer's instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is being used to
tighten the tailpiece.
a). Option- To stablize the receptor, especially if the floor is uneven, pour or towel a layer
of thinset mortar into installation area, taking care to keep the mortar out of the drain access hole. Do not apply maortar in areas where the receptor has feet that are intended to make full
contact with the floor.
10. Set the receptor in place, check to make sure it is level, and shim it if necessary. Sercure the receptor with large-head roofing nails driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the flange against the stud. Do no overdrive the nails.
11. Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes - in the end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template marked on the packaging carton. 'Cut the access hole with a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine tooth blade. If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is facing down.
12. Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1/32") between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the receptor- set a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of roofing nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place(or use duct tape). Poosition both end walls and test the fits. Make clip connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.
13. Remove the end wall - so you can prepare the installation area for them. If you kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it to the wall or studs.
14. Re install end panels, Permanently clipping them to the back panel according to the kit manufacturer's instructions. Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with the front of the receptor.
15. Once the panels are positioned correctly nand snapped together, fasten them to the wall studs.
if the panels have predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each stud at the panel tops and every 4" to 6" along vertical surfaces.
16. Install walllcovering material aboue the enclosure panels and anywehere else it is needed. Use moisture-resistant materials, and maintain a gap of 1/4" between the shoulders of the top panel flanges and the wallcovering.
17. Finish the wall and then caulk between the enclosure panels and the wallcoverings with silcone caulk.
18. Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk anround the escutcheon plate. Install the shower a rm esctcheon and showerhead.
19. Make an access panel and attach it at the framed openin created in step 8. A peiece of 1/4" plywood framed with mitered case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for access panel covers.
be installed over wallboard, but you can ususally achieve a more professional looking wall finish if
you remove the wallcovering and floor covering in the installation area. Dispose of the materials
immediately and thoroughly clean the area.
2. If you are adding a wall to create the alcove, lay out the locations for the studs and plumbing
on the new wood sill plate. Also lay out the stud locations on the cap plate that will be attached to
the ceiling. Refer to the enclosure kit instructions for exact locations and dimensions of studs.
Attach the sill plate to the floor with deck screws and panel adhesive, making sure it is square
to the back wall and the correct distance from the side wall.
3. Alighn a straight 2 x 4 right next to the sill plate and make a mark on the ceiling. Use a level to
extend that line directly above the sill plate. Attach the cap plate at that point.
4. Install the 2 x 4 sutds at the outlined locations. Check with a level to make sure each stud is plumb,
amd then attach them by driving deck screws toenail style into the sill plate and cap plate.
5. Cut an access hole in the floor for the drain, according to the installation manual instructions.
Drill openings in the sill plate of the wet wall (the new wall in this project) for the supply pipes,
also according to the instructions.
6. Install a drain pipe and branch line and then trim the drain pipe flush with the floor. If you are
not experieced with plumbing, hire a plumber to install the new drain line.
7. Install new supply risers as directed in the instruction manual (again, have a plumber do this if
necessary). Also install cross braces between the studs in the wet wall for mounting the faucet
body and shower arm.
8. If the supply plumbing is located in a wall (old or new) That is accessible from the non shower
side, install framing for a removable access panel.
9. Attach the drain tailpiece that came with your receptor to the underside of the unit, following
the manufacturer's instructions precisely. Here, an adjustable spud wrench is being used to
tighten the tailpiece.
a). Option- To stablize the receptor, especially if the floor is uneven, pour or towel a layer
of thinset mortar into installation area, taking care to keep the mortar out of the drain access hole. Do not apply maortar in areas where the receptor has feet that are intended to make full
contact with the floor.
10. Set the receptor in place, check to make sure it is level, and shim it if necessary. Sercure the receptor with large-head roofing nails driven into the wall stud so the heads pin the flange against the stud. Do no overdrive the nails.
11. Lay out the locations for the valve hole or holes - in the end wall panel that will be installed on the wet wall. Check your installation instructions. Some kits come with a template marked on the packaging carton. 'Cut the access hole with a hole saw and drill or with a jigsaw and fine tooth blade. If using a jigsaw, orient the panel so the good surface is facing down.
12. Position the back wall so there is a slight gap (about 1/32") between the bottom of the panel and the rim of the receptor- set a few small spacers on the rim if need be. Tack a pair of roofing nails above the top of the back panel to hold it in place(or use duct tape). Poosition both end walls and test the fits. Make clip connections between panels (inset) if your kit uses them.
13. Remove the end wall - so you can prepare the installation area for them. If you kit recommends panel adhesive, apply it to the wall or studs.
14. Re install end panels, Permanently clipping them to the back panel according to the kit manufacturer's instructions. Make sure the front edges of the end panels are flush with the front of the receptor.
15. Once the panels are positioned correctly nand snapped together, fasten them to the wall studs.
if the panels have predrilled nail holes, drive roofing nails through them at each stud at the panel tops and every 4" to 6" along vertical surfaces.
16. Install walllcovering material aboue the enclosure panels and anywehere else it is needed. Use moisture-resistant materials, and maintain a gap of 1/4" between the shoulders of the top panel flanges and the wallcovering.
17. Finish the wall and then caulk between the enclosure panels and the wallcoverings with silcone caulk.
18. Install the faucet handles and escutcheon and caulk anround the escutcheon plate. Install the shower a rm esctcheon and showerhead.
19. Make an access panel and attach it at the framed openin created in step 8. A peiece of 1/4" plywood framed with mitered case molding and painted to match the wall is one idea for access panel covers.
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